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Watch your window film from a distance of two to three feet; look through it, not at it. The full curing of your film will take about 7 to 10 days. As a result of the extra moisture that has become trapped between the glass and film during this time, the windows may seem foggy and have little water pockets. This "blister"-like effect is generated. These water blisters won't last long once all the water has evaporated, so don't try to remove them with a squeegee, prod, or poke. Rolling down your tinted windows before they are dry, which could take 3–5 days, could cause the film to peel.
Despite our best efforts, there may be a small amount of dust contamination or other flaws in every window film application due to the nature of the product. Additionally, after the windows are tinted, pre-existing faults or scratches as well as metal deposits on the glass are frequently more obvious.
Your tinted windows should be cleaned with a soft cloth, especially one made of microfiber. Unless they are marked AMMONIA FREE do not use, do not use, DO NOT use ammonia-based products like Windex. Ammonia could cause the chemicals in the film to react over time, making the window film cloudy and blotchy. Always mix rubbing alcohol and water in a 70/30 ratio.
The rear windows of most cars feature a black ceramic "frit" edging. This ceramic edge can have a dotted edge occasionally or a straight, flat edge. On the majority of cars, these thick black ceramic dots prevent the window film from sticking to the ceramic dots because they are quite thick. A whitish-looking strip trims the glass as a result of this. The top of some cars' rear windows is trimmed with a broad band of dots, which is typically not very noticeable. This region usually seems uneven and less than flawless.